Zagreb-Pleso Airport (Croatia) January 2024
Whereas the author had already been under a certain time pressure the year before to see the Croatian MiG-21s in action once more, this was to intensify in 2024, after all it seemed clear that MiG-21 operations would definitely end with the arrival of the first Rafales at the end of April. But when reports circulate according to which the MiG-21s would not even remain in service until then, but would be withdrawn one by one as early as January / February, haste is called for.
So it is convenient that shortly before New Year's Eve 2023 word comes from Zagreb that on January 4 the last MiG-21 unit in Europe, the 191st eskadrila lovačkih aviona of the Croatian Air Force, would celebrate the 32nd anniversary of its formation and that three MiG-21s would fly at 1 p.m. However, there is no official announcement of the date, and the fact that the actual founding day is January 17 and that it had always been celebrated on that day before raises doubts about the reliability of the report. But then the invitation sent to the guests turns up, and it is obvious: this is the chance for a successful opening visit for 2024. At the same time it becomes clear that – again – there would be no chance of being right at the action on the military side of the airfield. As we later learn, there is quite a lot to see there. No fewer than three MiG-21s are displayed: the MiG-21R in which Perešin fled to Austria in 1991, the red and white MiG-21UMD 165 "Kockica" and, with 166, another two-seater. Visitors also get access to the squadron buildings and can watch the flight preparations at close range.
But never mind, the mere hope of seeing flying MiG-21s for the 31st year in a row is enough to set off for Zagreb. In addition, the journey will be shorter this time because the author is spending a few days in Vienna with his son in the week in question, and the weather prospects are exceptionally good too.
So we set off from Vienna early on the morning of January 4, and when we arrive in Zagreb in the late morning in brilliant sunshine and almost spring-like weather, numerous enthusiasts – from Great Britain, Italy and Malta – have gathered at the fence to see the MiGs fly once more, like us. That alone is unusual, as on previous visits the author was usually alone at the airfield.
Zagreb-Pleso Airport (Croatia) March 2024
After the successful visit in January, the danger that 2024 could be the first year in 30 years without flying MiG-21s for the author had been averted, but for lack of official information the uncertainty about the forthcoming retirement date remained. The only solution: be on site as often as possible to see the aircraft fly at every opportunity. However, the problem known from the previous year persists: there are only sporadic flights and some weeks there is no flying at all. So again an announced flight was needed. After February passed without one, the announcement of an open day at Pula airport with a "MiG flypast" appears on Croatian websites at the beginning of March. That should be the hoped-for date! However, it takes another week ...
The only remaining question: drive to Pula for an unknown number of flypasts under unknown conditions, or be present for take-off and landing at Zagreb airport? Familiarity with the latter, together with the hope of rehearsal flying the day before, tips the balance, and so on Thursday the author drives to Zagreb to wait for the hoped-for training flight in the most beautiful spring weather on Friday. As no MiG had flown all week, the chances seemed good. But far from it: after what feels like an eternity with very sporadic and exclusively civil movements comes the sobering message: there will be no rehearsal for the event. As hope dies last, the author waits another two hours before setting off, disillusioned, to Karlovac to the Homeland War Museum, after all a MiG-21 is mounted on a plinth there, and on previous trips it had proved a good omen to visit displayed MiG-21s before the flying ones.
Late at night comes the relieving news: MiG take-off at 2.30 p.m. It is not yet known how many aircraft there will be, and the time is anything but optimal, as the sun will then be right over the runway, but the long journey was not in vain.
The next day numerous spotters and enthusiasts – including several from Germany – have gathered at the airport fence and await what is to come – some on the north side, some on the south side, because given the position of the sun it is unclear where the better photo position is. In the morning the weather is worse than forecast, but as the take-off time approaches the sky clears. Then the radio crackles, a MiG-21bisD taxies onto the runway, followed by another. That is more than could be expected. Unfortunately 118 is not among them, whose large 30 on the left side of the fin the author has not yet been able to photograph.
An account of the experience from the other side of the fence can be found here (in German).
Rafale Arrival Zagreb-Pleso (Croatia) April 2024
It had been known for some time that the first Rafales to replace the Croatian MiG-21s would arrive at the end of April. For a long time, however, the exact date of arrival remains uncertain. In mid-April reports increasingly point to the 25th, but official confirmation is still pending. It only comes on the 23rd, and the author, firmly expecting that the MiG-21s will take off to welcome their replacements, sets off for Zagreb again.
On the morning of the 25th he is at the old terminal early, where numerous photographers are already waiting. Perhaps 30 or 40 people stand close together, but not crowded, at the railing of the terrace and wait for what is to come. At first the weather is still quite decent, but the closer the time of arrival comes, the darker and colder it gets. Nor is the mood lifted by the news that the Rafales will not fly over the airfield in formation but come straight in to land. But never mind, most are here, like the author, also or even only because of the MiGs – you hear that again and again in conversation. The tension rises. Will the many airliners in front of the terminal hide the MiGs taxiing past? The two MiG-21s are to take off at 12 noon. The time comes and goes – and nothing happens. Then the bad news: the QRA launch has been cancelled on instructions "from the very top". What remains is rather unspectacular.
Zagreb-Pleso Airport (Croatia) August 2024
After their official farewell at the AirVG airshow at the beginning of May, the MiG-21s continue to fly at least sporadically in the following weeks, but far too rarely and randomly to risk another trip to Zagreb on spec. Hopes of an appearance at the airshow in Varaždin are dashed. Enquiries to the organiser go unanswered, but the programme finally published confirms: no MiG-21, only the Rafale. When the bags for the summer holiday on the Croatian coast are already packed, the news comes: within two weeks it is over. Of course the camera equipment comes along on holiday so as to be able to react if necessary, but this time, too, the news turns out to be a hoax. Again sporadic flights are reported, but unfortunately they do not lead as far as Rovinj. At least two Rafales fly over the town and hotel on the last day of the holiday.
But after returning from holiday comes the surprise: at the end of July, the Chief of the General Staff of the Croatian Armed Forces, Colonel General Tihomir Kundid, announces MiG-21 flights for the anniversary at the press conference presenting the programme for the celebrations of the 29th anniversary of Operation "Oluja" on August 5. So of course it was clear that the author would go – but only until the next day. Then an acquaintance with good contacts to the squadron writes to him that MiG-21 participation has been cancelled. From then on the author checked the Ministry of Defence website practically every hour in the hope of finding the event programme with the decisive details. The programme then appears in the late afternoon on Friday, but – unlike in previous years – without naming the aircraft types that would fly at Knin.
Another Croatian acquaintance, regularly present at the fence, had however said that the MiG-21 would certainly take part and also suspected that there would be a rehearsal on Sunday. The official announcement, however, was that there could be flights over Knin at any time between Thursday and Monday. Torn, the author then decided to drive down on Sunday to be on site on Monday.
After he has already been on the road for about two hours, the first update comes from Zagreb: only Rafales have taken off. But the author has already made good progress and is therefore determined to drive to Zagreb in any case. Then, half an hour later, the hoped-for message: MiG-21 has taken off with two more Rafales! A little unease arises when, after a good hour, the message comes that the MiG has still not landed, but five minutes later the MiG is safely back on the ground. So two days of MiG flying would even have been possible ...
The rest of the journey is relaxed. After the traditional detour to a displayed MiG-21, without which experience shows there is no success with the flying examples in Croatia, and an evening in a rather deserted Zagreb, the next morning the author stands expectantly at the fence – together with a Croat and a Taiwanese who had postponed his flight home specially for the occasion. Later two Germans join us who had only set off early that morning.
After that it is back home, not as relaxed as on Sunday, but still in under eight hours. The Croatian acquaintance had spoken to an Air Force officer beforehand, who said this had definitely been the last flight. This view is reinforced by the fact that on its flight 117 carried a drop-tank with signatures of the personnel, signed at the squadron celebration in January. But as always in Croatia: nobody really knows anything ...
Zagreb-Pleso Airport (Croatia) December 2024
So since January the sword of Damocles of a sudden end of operations has been hanging over the Croatian MiG-21s. And since August there had been no announced flight. When the weather forecast for the week before Christmas announces several days of fine weather, the plan matures to drive to Zagreb once more. The question to the experts on site gets the answer: "no real idea".
But the weather looks too good to let the chance slip, and so we are to set off on Monday. A marten has other plans: the night before, it destroys cables and hoses on the author's car. By the time the damage is repaired, it is too late to leave. The annoyance knows no bounds when the news on Tuesday morning is: two flights today (that had not happened for weeks!), the first at 11 a.m. Shortly afterwards the video of the take-off follows.
When on Wednesday the word is "there is a rumour that there will also be flying on Thursday", it is clear that the author will set off.
Hardly have all aircraft landed when the message follows: there will be another flight at 2 p.m. So it is clear: that was definitely not the last flight. What was it then? Perhaps the farewell of one of the three pilots who were still flying the MiG-21 at the end.
Now what to do: wait another three hours (or longer, as the second take-off on Tuesday had only taken place at around 2.45 p.m.), or drive home now, cover most of the distance in daylight, even in sunshine, and be back with the family in the evening – or wait for the second take-off, risk that it does not take place at all and drive back late at night? The author chooses the first option.
He is already almost in Germany when the message comes: "the MiG has taken off". It is now already 2.30 p.m. – so the right decision. Half an hour later a video follows showing the MiG-21's flypast over the airfield – comparatively unspectacular.
The author has just reached Regensburg when events come thick and fast. Not only is he suddenly and unexpectedly stuck in the first (and, as it turned out, only) traffic jam of the trip, but messages, pictures and videos come in in quick succession: on the final approach the MiG-21 pilot thanked the staff of the tower and fire brigade. Then the MiG-21 can be seen being greeted with the traditional water salute of the fire brigade on the last metres. And finally the word is: a pilot has confirmed – it was the last flight. So it is over ...
The author thanks Chris, Marko and Hrvoje as well as the staff of Zagreb airport and the press office of the Croatian Ministry of Defence.